DOMAINE PHILIPPE COLIN SAINT-AUBIN 1ER CRU LE CHARMOIS

"Le Charmois" parcel is situated at the edge of Saint-Aubin, just a third of a mile from the premier cru vineyard in Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chaumées. Le Charmois is only 33 feet from Philippe’s other Saint-Aubin wine, Les Combes, yet their soils are markedly different. Two plots of vines (20 years and 60 years old) are set in limestone soils, whereas Les Combes’ terroir consists of a high clay content. The vineyards are trained in the Single Guyot method and farmed sustainably, following la lutte raisonnée (the practice of using less chemicals, less often, less aggressively than conventional growers), with rigorous plowing and minimal use of chemical sprays.

Aromas of green apples and white flowers introduce the 2017 Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Le Charmois, a medium-bodied, bright wine with an elegantly textural attack and a chalky, succulent mid-palate and finish. This 13-hectare domaine, based in Chassagne-Montrachet's ZAC, dates back to 2004, when Philippe and brother Bruno partitioned the former Domaine Colin-Deléger. Philippe Colin exudes an air of quiet seriousness, and his style is pure and elegant, beautifully defined by site, eschewing any stylistic successes. New oak is only a modest presence, and it's increasingly larger format barrels that stock this cellar. This tasting was very impressive indeed, and I encourage readers to seek out these wines. Clearly, the domaine flies somewhat under the radar when one considers the quality to be found in the bottle. William Kelley - 01/02/2019